The cuisine of this northernmost Italian region combines Germanic, Hungarian, and Italian touches, and includes such delicacies as beef goulasch and fruit-stuffed gnocchi with browned butter and bread crumbs. Rather than pasta or risotto, cooks in Trentino-Alto Adige prefer to prepare polentas made of cornmeal or buckwheat, or hearty soups studded with bread dumplings. Speck, the region's prized smoked ham, flavors numerous dishes, from braised cabbage in red wine to long-simmered pork stews.

Involtini di Speck ed Asparagi

Speck and Asparagus Scrolls

Speck, a smoked Prosciutto from Trentino-Alto Adige in northeastern Italy, is typically served with rye or whole-grain breads and sweet farmhouse butter at the start of a meal. These savory bundles are a fun finger food, ideal for cocktail parties. If you like, try topping the bundles with smoked Mozzarella and warm them in the oven for 10 minutes, then serve as an appetizer instead, as in the photo here.

• 12 thin asparagus spears, woody ends trimmed
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 6 thin slices Speck, halved

Bring 1 quart of water to a boil. Add the asparagus and salt; cook 5 minutes, or until the asparagus is crisp-tender. Drain and place in a bowl of ice water. Drain again. (This can be done up to 1 day ahead; refrigerate until needed.)

Lay the slices of Speck on a counter. Top each with an asparagus spear. Roll into bundles and arrange on a platter. Serve within 30 minutes. Makes 12

Pollo Brasato al Ginepro con Patate

Braised Chicken with Juniper Berries and Potatoes

Juniper berries have a lovely, woodsy aroma; if you prefer, you can tie them in a short piece of cheesecloth so you can retrieve them easily at the end of cooking.

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 8 skinless chicken thighs
• 1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
• 8 spring onions or scallions, thinly sliced
• 2 thyme sprigs
• 1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tablespoon juniper berries
• 2 cups dry red wine
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 16 baby carrots
• 16 new potatoes, halved

Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a deep 14-inch saute pan over a medium-high flame. Dredge the chicken in the flour, shake off the excess, and brown on all sides in the olive oil; remove from the pan. Discard the oil in the pan.

Heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil in the same pan. Add the spring onions; cook over medium heat for 5 minutes, or until wilted. Add the thyme, parsley, bay leaves, and juniper berries; cook 5 more minutes. Return the chicken to the pan; pour in the red wine. Season with salt and pepper, bring to a boil, lower the heat to medium, and cook 25 minutes.

Stir in the carrots and potatoes; cover and cook 45 more minutes, or until the chicken and vegetables are tender. Adjust the salt if needed and serve hot, preferably with steaming polenta. Serves 4