For an in-depth (and funny) review of our Liguria tour of 2004, read James' Travel Log.

Wow! We were on your first Liguria tour so we were aware of the excellence of your tours. The bar was set very high. We were blown away that the Puglia/Basilicata tour was even better. The hotel in Polignano a Mare, perched on a cliff, was awesome. Polignano is a gem. Each restaurant that invited us into their kitchen was proud and eager to share their consummate culinary skill. It was an honor to be served the wonderful dishes that demonstrate the heart and soul of the region. What can beat the four pasta ladies at Grotta Plazzese followed by dinner overlooking the astounding grotto and sea? I don't know that there is another restaurant like that in the world. The gelato (to die for) demonstration was a blast. The espresso speciale served by the very Italian bar that rarely opens WAS special. It was a very memorable experience with the group and with two special, sensitive leaders. Mille grazie and kudos to you and Dino for all your efforts, attention to detail, and caring attitude. Liguria was the first "tour" we were ever part of. Puglia/Basilicata was the second. Your "tours" have the feeling of a family joining relatives for meals. It was a pleasure to be part of your family. Ron & Kathryn C., Madison, WI

We love to reflect on our trip... it's so interesting to hear what comes out of my own mouth as the highlights... and it's even more interesting to hear what comes out of David's...!!!! i loved the pasta ladies... the sharing, connecting with tradition... i loved the gelato...seeing it made from scratch... the pride of ownership... sampling what had been made before our eyes... and oh my god... how do i ever go back to ice cream again... and her coming to the restaurant for an uproarious ovation... i loved knowing about vincotto made exclusively there... We loved your trip... it was filled with love and thought... and fantastic experiences... Patty A., Chevy Chase, MD

What a wonderful time we had on the tour. Great Food! Great Itinerary! And Great Hosts! We watch a lot of travel shows on television, and can't help but notice that Puglia is quickly becoming more and more popular. We are delighted that you showed it to us while it is still real and less commercialized. It was amazing that the people truly seemed delighted to have us frequent their establishments. We tried to list the highlights of the trip, but were unsuccessful as the entire trip was a highlight. The only low point of the trip was having to say goodbye to you and our new friends. We would like to thank you both for a wonderful culinary experience and we look forward to joining you for another trip. Joe & Marianne B., Punta Gorda, FL

Jim & I haven’t stopped talking about our week in Italy with you. Our friends are already trying to make reservations for dinner at our house due to the rave revues we have given them about our gourmet dining & cooking experiences. Thanks once again for the memorable trip, your kindness & genuine concern for everyone. You’re the best!! Suzanne S., St. Louis, MO

Just wanted to say a big THANK-YOU for making our first trip to Italy a memorable one. We had a blast, all of our senses were on overload. You certainly made everyone feel very relaxed... I certainly don't think anyone could have covered as much territory on their own. Your knowledge and expertise on the local food and customs made us enjoy the experience so much more. It certainly was the most memorable experience, one I will look back on with fond memories of all the delicious food, the cooks and all the people in our group. Audrey L., Boise, ID

When we left you... started our car and drove off, we immediately had "group withdrawals." Fausto had given Susan an U' Giancu musical CD. We hoped some music would help us from missing our group so much. Is it possible that the rental car did not have a CD player?! We were not even one block away, before we agreed to pull off the road. Susan was on her hands and knees looking for a place to put the disc. Sam was trying to read the Italian driver's manual. Where is Micol when we need her? With no music, just fond memories of the fabulous travel companions that we had said arrivederci to, we traveled on... It has been difficult to reenter the real world... searching for a great dish of homemade pasta in the California foothills. Oh how we loved the all the special regional foods you introduced us to. We promise to announce when we settle down and actually attempt to cook some of our new recipes... stay tuned. We are especially grateful for our anniversary celebration at Ristorante Rosa. Thank you for the beautiful and magical evening. We throw you a kiss every time we walk past the very special dish that you gave us that night... in closing, we thank you again for helping to make wonderful memories... We will have fond thoughts of you for many years to come. Sam & Susan P., Placerville, CA

Micol and Dino... The week was wonderful and so special being together again. Liguria is a beautiful part of Italy and so different from other places I've visited. The cooking was so much fun, especially Fausto, and the food scrumptious. I've already made delicious pesto sauce (and used my pignoli nuts and olive oil from Italy)... I feel very fortunate to have had the opportunity to experience Italy with all my senses...especially taste, with both of you. Arlene L., Great Neck, NY

Just want to tell you how much Lorrie and I enjoyed our tour with you. Incredibly I had no idea what a treat you had in store for us. Lorrie and I each were delighted with you local knowlege, how well everything was organized, and your warm and loving attention to all in our group... There are many "Tours", but yours are really the way I imagine they should be. And now that we have experienced yours, we know there are none better. You impart a special and intriguing personal level to everything we experienced, bringing a delightful sense of intimacy to each event, whether it was a bus ride or cooking with the incredible Fausto. You are there to arrange everything, to meet and greet and look after all the people that make the tour so interesting: the restaurants, wineries, and olive oil producers, making us all part of your extended family. That is how we felt like we were being tutored as part of your family in the specifics of pasta making or olive oil tasting. When I asked a question I was answered directly, and enthusiastically, with no hesitation. You encouraged each and every one of us to participate at whatever level we were comfortable. I can't help but smile when I think of our trip, the warm wonderful people, Sam and Susan, Capt and Susanne, Fausto's assistant (so good with a knife), her mom, Ed, and everyone else who was so interesting and such fun to be with. The FOOD!! and WINE!! which was much more than generous, and we loved the beautiful Italy you showed us. We are happy to extend a warm invitation to all in our group to come and visit us anytime you are in the Hamptons! Ed T., Hampton Bays, NY

We have talked and talked about our wonderful experiences in Rapallo and throughout the Liguria region. Thank you Micol, for sharing with us such an exceptional experience of Italy - we couldn't have had a better time! The restaurants you picked, the towns we visited, our extra-ordinary afternoon in Fausto's kitchen - were more than we could have hoped for! Paula is convinced that it was the best vacation she's ever been on! Thank you, thank you!! You poured your heart into the week and it showed. Susan B., Fort Worth, TX

Once again, thanks so much for all the hard work you put in to make the tour a real pleasure and one I'd repeat in a heartbeat. Pat B., Durham, NC

Micol: We loved Italy- the trip was terrific - we have not stopped talking about it. Thanks again for the wonderful trip. You really took good care of us. I loved Umbria, the mountains, the old Roman construction, the architecture, the people, the kitchens and the inspiring chefs, the restaurants, the streets, our beautiful hotel in Spoleto and THE FOOD! Tuscany was beautiful also, the rolling hills and the wineries - beautiful. Thank you, thank you for taking such good care of Charley and me. Would you ever let us come again? I want to see and taste more of Italy. Sunny M., Glendora, CA

I just want to thank you so much for being so thoughtful in creating a wonderful, unforgettable experience for us! I'm already trying to figure out when I will be able to go again with Bob. Words are hard to describe the most treasured vacation. Betsy L., Boise, ID

Happy thanks for a sensational trip from beginning to end. It's hard to imagine that our week was only the second such tour you had conducted, so smooth, seamless and effortless did the results appear. I know full well the many hours and months of preparation it takes to assemble a project such as this. Effortless it certainly is not!! But it had the effortless illusion of pure fun!! Richard N., New York City

Doriann and I are still smiling about our trip with you to Italy. What a wonderful experience - it certainly is leaps ahead of the "commercial" tours... the care and effort you put into helping us participate in all of the events and sights was certainly above and beyond the call of duty. Thank you, thank you. Sandy C., Sands Point, NY

Jerry and I are so looking forward to seeing you again next year! We had such an unforgettable experience with you in Umbria & Tuscany, and are anxious to see another region in Italy and taste that region's specialties with you. Sherry & Jerry H., Winston-Salem, NC

I would like to thank you for a WONDERFUL experience. I enjoyed every moment. (Even the 5 pounds). I look forward to seeing you again. I will try to plan my buying trips around your cooking classes! If you ever come to Montreal please look me up. Lina B., Montreal CANADA

What a grand and glorious time we had. Each night we spent in Italy after we left you we tried to imagine what was happening with your second group and knew they were not near as much fun as our group!!! You were the perfect leader and so much fun I just cannot begin to tell you how much we enjoyed our time. Karen J., Austin, TX

I had a great time and you did a superb job in leading the group - like a pro who has done it for years! Thanks again for a marvelous vacation. Elaine S. Arlington VA

Micol, you are just the "coolest" person, I have ever met. So sharp and caring. Your tour was just the greatest - all because of you - and you gathered up just the neatest people to take part. Please know that we all love you and all the effort that you put into the tour. Genevieve B., Fort Worth, TX

I never enjoyed myself so much in a tour. I cannot thank you enough! I learned not just about food and Italy but I learned so much from you and everybody. It was truly a memorable experience. Deedee T., Metro Manila, Philippines

We are still luxuriating in the recollections of our trip. Micol, it was a fantastic trip, exceeding all of our expectations. You put so much effort into ensuring that each member of the group was comfortable and as involved as they wanted to be. We so enjoyed the hands-on experiences and personal explanations of the establishments we visited. I think that the memories of the trip will remain with each of us for a long time. Again, it was marvelous. Ron & Kathryn C., Madison, WI

Thanks, Micol, I really had a great time with everyone, and particularly you. Your kindness and enthusiasm was really great. Marcy Y., Philadelphia, PA

by James Johnson, Austin, TX

A lawyer by profession yet a writer at heart, James joined our tour to the Italian Riviera in May 2004 and our tour to Tuscany & Umbria in May 2005, and wrote a very entertaining personal account of the seven days we shared on the Riviera. Here's James' travel log.

Why did I sign on for the Rustico Cooking Tour? The real simple answer is I got real lucky. I had never in my wildest dreams thought you would ever get me on any type of tour. A tour in my mind was being confined with a large group of real old people, at least half of whom I would probably not like, name tags so when they got lost someone would know where to return them and yes a leader with an umbrella who thought they knew everything. I guess my definition of a tour sounds a great deal like what I saw with the group of Germans that were in the hotel in Rapallo. They really looked like they were having fun! I think I saw one of them smile once. Harboring these thoughts I was not a likely candidate to be taking any type of tour. That all changed in one evening in the fall of 2003 when my wife and I took a cooking class at Central Market in Austin, Texas. Our instructor that evening was Micol Negrin. It was a great class and I was struck by her passion for her native country and its cuisine.

It was during that class that Micol announced she was taking her first culinary tour of the Liguria region of Italy in May of 2004. I did not even know where the region was in Italy. Then she made her enticing sales pitch saying there would be no umbrella, no nametags and only a small group of people she liked. My wife and I had talked about wanting to take a trip to Italy but had never gotten serious about it. That night walking to our car I looked at my wife and said, if she will accept us, let’s do it.

We sent in our initial deposit, which was luckily accepted, and then we set about planning our journey. Micol was available every step of the way. I am not sure how many E- mails went back and forth between my wife and Micol between the time we sent in our initial deposit and our meeting up in Rapallo. She helped with the planning of our additional stay and always had recommendations about where to eat or things to do along the way.

Day One: We had a welcoming cocktail reception at the hotel starting at 11 AM. It was time to meet our fellow tour members:

Ron and Kathryn: The sailors and gardeners from Madison, Wisconsin.

Abby and Rudi: The semi retired butcher’s wit and ski bum and his always-active wife Abby. I am sure that Abby lied about her occupation. She said she was an accountant. When I think accountant I think quiet and reserved. Not Abby! I have never seen a woman move so fast on crutches.

Ruth: The sage from Ft. Worth. She was always asking the prying question with that rye grin on her face. The commentary between Ruth and Genevieve was priceless as they took verbal jabs at each other as they had done since meeting at TCU in the early 40’s.

Genevieve: She was a real traveler and I tried to get her to adopt me but I didn’t succeed. Ruth told me that Genevieve had a broken thermostat because she was either hot or cold. Come to think of it she did wear out one sweater putting it on and off. Would have worn out her gloves also, had she not lost them.

Susan: The cook and leader of her crew.

Paula: The workout leader of her crew. She watched what she ate and then kept reminding us that she was going to do what I needed to do after this trip. Go to a spa.

David and Rosemary: Still lovebirds after 30 years. I gathered that David, a pediatrician, had never been very hands-on in the kitchen. He really got into the hands-on demonstrations and Rosemary may have him in the kitchen from now on, wanted or not.

April the chiropractor from Texas and Robin the pediatric nurse from Little Rock. Two closer sisters I have never met. They were always smiling and proved to be quite resourceful, if you choose to believe their story.

Rowena and Regina: They were known to us as DeeDee and Gigi. I was never sure whom they were talking to on the phone. If they were not on the phone they were taking pictures. Gigi suffered from one great fear the entire trip. She was scared that when she got home her husband was going to expect her to cook. DeeDee promised me that she would show Gigi’s husband her certificate.

The lucky one of Day One was Susan. She enters the hotel and tells Micol she thinks she might have done something bad. She had left her crew’s airline and train tickets on the train when she got off. We were all glad she was not traveling in New York because she would not have gotten them back like she did.

After our initial meeting and trying to put names with faces, it was off to the Vesuvio Ristorante for lunch. I am not sure what Micol had them expecting. Our group of 17 was soon served with enough food for at least 50 people. We had a sampling of just about everything on the menu and an explanation of all was given by Micol. We were all getting the message that this tour was really about food. In the space of an hour and half we had a reception with snacks and then a feast.

Next we get on the bus and head to Santa Margherita. We all went our separate ways and explored the small town for about 45 minutes. All were happy to see the bus arrive because of the impending rain shower overhead. The group had all passed their first big test. All of us were on our own and all had returned on time to the correct place.

We then traveled to Manuelina Ristorante in Recco to witness our first demonstration. We had a demonstration on the making of a seafood salad and what proved to be Ruth and Rudi’s favorite focaccia. Abby really got involved in the hands-on portion of the demonstration, at least one of us thought it looked like a replay of the “I Love Lucy” candy factory segment. Poor Rudi got locked in the restroom and took a while to escape. I think he was really upset that no one had missed him.

Dinner that night was yet another wonderfully prepared feast with plenty of wine. The trip back to Rapallo had many of us wondering if we would be able to survive the rest of the tour due to all the food and wine we had consumed on our first day. On the bus trip back Micol warned us of the experience that we would have the next morning with Fausto. I am not sure that she or anyone else for that matter could adequately describe the experience that awaited us.

Day Two: We bused to Fausto’s Ristorante situated in the magnificent hills above Rapallo. We were a little late and Fausto was waiting. I have met many characters in my lifetime and this guy will always remain near the top of the list. He greeted us at the front door with his wonderful English, carrot skull cap (one of many in his collection: we also saw the bride and groom, and the Statute of Liberty) and one chef shoe of blue and one of red. His first order of business that day was to assign DeeDee and Gigi to be his protectors. Inside the Ristorante the walls were decorated with one cartoon after another. Some of the cartoons were covered with curtains to protect the bashful. One could spend a full day in there just reading the cartoons. The decor of the Ristorante and dress of Fausto represented only one aspect of this chef.

He is a true professional and was really prepared for us. He had different workstations neatly laid and out and, after proudly introducing his staff, he described what we were going to prepare that morning. The kitchen was huge and had every item one could possibly use. Fausto got everyone, except Rudi who was reading cartoons, involved in the process. Our group had a little problem with picking the correct onions from his garden. He kept requesting that we stop killing the young ones. Rosemary finally saved the day and was able to pull one of what Fausto considered the correct age. Rosemary for her onion pulling skills became a favorite of Fausto’s. This fondness was hindered somewhat by David being there. I just know she would have gotten that longed-for pinch had David not been around.

After about three and a half hours guess what we did? We sat down to eat more food and drink more wine. The view with the gently falling rain and the food were both wonderful. During lunch while talking to Fausto I saw another aspect of the man. We were talking about the Ristorante being there for forty years and how his mother’s recipes had been the starting foundation for the place. While talking about his mother his eyes moistened and you could really see the passion he had for continuing what she had started many years ago.

A test! No one told us about being tested but Fausto had other ideas. Each of us was given a sheet of paper and told to list all items that we had prepared that day. A perfect score was nineteen. Abby and Paula were the winners.

Full and content we were off again. This time it was a short bus ride to Camogli. The weather was cold, then rainy, then warm and then sunny. All went their separate ways. Karen and Micol raided the lone bookstore for cookbooks. James got drenched by a big wave trying for the perfect picture, but soon dried out. Once again all made it back to the bus at our appointed time and we were off for more food and wine.

Ristorante Rosa was our appointed stop for the evening. What a wonderful view overlooking the town of Camogli and the sea. We had only been seated for a short time when Micol announced that a cruise ship was coming along the coast to pay tribute to retired sailors that lived in the home across the road from the Ristorante. It was touching to watch the shutter windows open and the guys sitting there awaiting the ship’s salute. When the ship was even with the retirement home, the ship’s captain gave several blasts of its horn and then headed out to sea. As I stood there I could only imagine the various thoughts those old salts sitting in those windows were having. Yet another wonderful meal and we were off to the hotel.

Day Three: We walked to the train station and took the train to Cinque Terre. We got off at Monterosso and people were free to take off to their own adventures. The brave and hardy took off on hikes of various links. The more reserved, or as I would put it, smarter of the group being Abby, Rudi, Ruth, Genevieve, Karen, James and Micol leisurely walked to one of Micol’s favorite pasty shops for coffee and pastries. Micol and I got to witness an interesting disagreement between one of the pastry chefs and her husband. I am not sure if he had found a better pastry chef or what, but she was not a happy woman.

We all made it to our appointed meeting spot in Manarola for our walk to Riomaggiore. For some, the route to Manarola was a little harder than for others. I am not sure if I will ever believe the story about April and Robin losing their way. I am not sure how or where they were and neither were they. Their story was that they got lost and hitchhiked a ride with an older gentleman of about sixty to within seeing distance of Manarola and then walked on in. Now being within months of their older gentleman definition I took some mild offense. The start of the walk to Riomaggiore got off to an interesting start. A group of around 30 young Italian gentlemen had been having quite a party. They were really ready for our group to join in. Genevieve seemed to be their favorite and I thought for a moment that she might stay. Micol playing the role of a proper leader did not like the actions of the group. The walk to Riomaggiore was easy and quite beautiful.

Once in Riomaggiore, Walter the winemaker met us. Walter had us follow him to his wine cellar. The wine cellar was a real small cellar in a residential dwelling. Walter has great love for what he was producing. Walter’s problem is that what he is producing was really good; he just didn’t have any of it available for sale.

After the lecture and tasting we boarded the bus and headed into the hills above Riomaggiore. The bus stopped at a small structure that had a great viewing area and a most profitable restroom on the viewing level and a bar below. We soon discovered that Mr. Bar Owner a/k/a Mr. Potty Patrol suffered from an extreme case of priority disorder. Rudi went down and paid the one Euro to get the key for the restroom. Soon Mr. Potty Patrol appeared to make sure that his Euro Potty was making a sufficient potty profit. Several of us wondered how many drink orders he missed while playing Potty Patrol. I wonder if he lists his job as bartender or as a potty patrolman. I can hear him now bragging about making his fortune as a Potty Patrolman. After taking in the view we head back down the mountain for the train station and our trip back to Rapallo.

At the train station the group sets a record for train departure. Everyone boards the train and is sitting down when our fearless leader announces Wrong Train, Everyone Off. I have never seen 17 people get off a train so fast in my life. All accounted for, we then get on the correct train and head to Rapallo.

Once in Rapallo we head to Trattoria Sotto la Scala. What a quaint small place it was. Our group had one room with two tables. The rest of the Ristorante consisted of tables to sit maybe sixteen additional people. The meal was absolutely wonderful and was what I would call down home Italian cooking. The staff in the whole establishment consisted of the owner/waiter and one chef in the kitchen. This guy was busting his buns to make things work. I really came to appreciate the place even more when I walked outside and noticed that the menu placed outside the front door was written in pencil on a piece of graph paper. As we were leaving the owner presented each of us with a watercolor of Santa Margherita. What a wonderful gesture of caring and friendship.

One observation I must make is that I am sure that the Gelato industry, in the areas we toured, has definitely suffered an economic downturn since this group’s departure. Rudi, David, April, Robin, DeeDee & Gigi did a complete market survey of the Gelato quality at almost every stop we made. After each stop, the hot topic on the bus was “What flavor did you have?” “Was it good?” Of great concern was where would the next sample come from and what flavor should be tried next. I feel sure that those six had some type of Gelato withdrawal problems once they left Italy. I must admit that several of the rest of us broke Italian custom and drank plenty of cappuccino after 10:00AM everyday.

Day Four: We depart early for Finale Ligure and the Cascina delle Terre Rosse winery. The town of Finale Ligure looked like a wonderful town with a great beach area. Rudi and James found great humor in the directions given to the bus driver. The driver was lost and stops a guy on the street…after having asked for directions, he gets the classic shrug of the shoulder and the upturned palms. It was classic.

Everyone needs a shot or two, or three, of wine at 10:00 AM on a fine Sunday morning. This organic winery named Cascina delle Terre Rosse sat on top of a mountain. The owner was very proud of his wine, as he should have been, and you could tell he was very particular about his product. He didn’t like one of the cheeses that Micol had brought, as he did not think it paired well with his wine. He sent his wife for a cheese that went correctly with his wine. Unlike Walter, this owner had wine to sell. The owner’s wife was the proud owner of a one-year-old English bulldog and as we were leaving, she brought the dog down to meet everyone. James wanted to take the dog home but she would have none of it.

It was at this winery that Genevieve was certain that James lost her gloves. Now she was wearing them, and no I did not accompany her to the restroom, but she insisted that I lost them. I guess she figured I was an easy target, and would believe it, since she and Ruth kept giving me their wine to drink.

The next stop on our adventure was the Magnone Olive Oil Producers headquarters. The operation is run by two brothers who gave a great presentation on the production of olive oil. The lunch they prepared was light and tasty. The bad part of this stop was that they had their gift shop open. Rudi and James took turns egging on the other’s wife into seeing how much they could buy for the other to carry home. Rudi won the contest when Karen just had to have a rather large clay pot. I am sorry to report that the pot made it home, but was in several more pieces that when originally purchased. It is really nice to carry a clay pot all the way home just to have clay shards for some outdoor plants.

Next we were off to the Toirano Grotto in Toirano. The entire group made it up the mountain and into the first room of the Grotto. After the first room Karen, Micol, Genevieve, Abby and James headed down the mountain for cappuccino and coke. Those that made the complete tour loved it.

From the Grotto it is time to head for the next eating establishment. Our leader saw to it that we always had plenty of food and wine. Along the way we did stop at one small town to look around for a few minutes. Yes, several of the crew did find a Gelato Shop, which happened to be the only thing open in the entire town. Back on the bus we heard the same questions: “What flavor did you get?” “How was it?” Once we arrived in Albenga, we stopped again and some hardy souls got out to look at the old town, while others slept. My wife, Karen, has met her match for cookbook buying. She and Micol made yet another raid on a book store. I think that they both picked up two additions for their respective collections. This proved difficult for Karen as she needed to find English versions.

The closeness of this group was evident to Micol, Karen and I when we looked up and saw Gigi and Genevieve walking arm in arm around the town. It was a scene that was touching to the three of us. The explorers made it back to the bus and again it was time for food and wine. The next stop did prove to be a little troublesome for the group. Our bus driver found a parking space and everyone disembarked from the bus. Now after these four days it was evident that this group was up to anything. Disappointment soon followed for several members of the group when they discovered that the Sex Shop close by was closed on Sunday and there was no time for another Gelato at the Gelato Express Shop.

The meal was yet another taste of the wonderful food of Liguria. The only problem of the night occurred when the group insisted on having the women who prepared the desserts appear at the table. When the group gave a loud round of applause, the dog under the adjoining table went crazy. Guess he was upset that he had not tasted the wonderful chocolate. Full and tired at 10:30 we boarded the bus for the one-hour trip back to Rapallo, but not before the “Gelato Crew” mentioned making a run to the stand across the street. Lucky for the rest of us they stayed on board.

The trip back to Rapallo showed the true dedication of our leader. Despite all of the snoring from the back of the bus she was determined to make sure that the bus driver was wide awake. As a result there was a good hour-long discussion, at the front on the bus, on the do’s and don’ts of Hungarian cooking. Yes, I can see it coming, her next cookbook…it will be titled “Micol Negrin Does Hungarian”. She got so many ideas on that bus trip I know that she is truly inspired to make that her next cookbook endeavor.

Day Five: Some in the group were having problems. I was not sure if they were fading from a lack of sleep or because they were just stuffed. Several slept in. Not Karen, Micol and Abby. They head out as soon as the cooking store is opened. This was not a good sign. Karen suffers from a severe case of “kitchen-gadget phobia”. She has a real fear that somewhere out there is a kitchen item that she does not have. I have been searching for a cure to this phobia for some 35 years. Micol had a very womanly solution to Karen’s phobia. Her solution was to have her purchase one of just about everything in the store. At various times I was given two small and one large hint about the damage done. The first hint was that there were no bags and I am told the store was going to deliver the items. Now, where I am from, they deliver furniture and major appliances, not pots and pans. Clue two was when we ran into Kathryn and Ron in the cooking store and Karen could explain every item in the store, where everything was located and knew everyone by name. The last big clue was the next morning. As I am laying in bed half asleep I hear Karen moving around uttering to herself things like, oh no, humm, what can I do with this, where will this go?!!!!! It soon dawns on me that we will be bag shopping soon.

Finally, the hardy ones of the group make their way to Forno Tossini for a demonstration on focaccia making. The baker was from Recco and you could tell that he was another true professional. You could also tell that he really enjoyed what he did and liked giving the demonstration. It appeared that the staff also gave great delight at our presence as they kept coming around giving us various samples. The focaccia that was prepared was excellent. I think it was the best I had on the trip. While the demonstration was going on I was standing next to a single baker’s rack that would hold 30 trays. I was blown away when the baker said that he made 1,000 loaves a day in the summer. I am still not sure where he was going to put the other 32-plus racks to hold all the bread loaves. Ruth wanted to take him home with her so she would have an uninterrupted source of focaccia.

The next stop was amazing. We had been informed that we were going to a pasta making shop and the daughter of the lady who had started the shop was going to conduct the class. We were also told that it was to be the first she had ever done. I still do not believe that. In a very modern, sleek and immaculate store we were in for a real treat. In her perfect London English she went through the art of making pasta. This lady has moved with the times. You would not think that in the middle of this small town in Italy, a shop could survive making pasta. Then you stop and realize that pasta making, like a lot of other things, is becoming a lost art in the kitchens of today. She showed us how to do it the old fashioned way and then showed us how they did it with their machines. I have now witnessed the fastest hands in the world. The young woman making tortellini was unbelievable and had a wonderful personality.

The lunch was delightful as was the whole experience with them. I went back one day by myself and “Miss Fast Hands” saw me standing outside looking in. She immediately came over and opened the door and we visited for a short while. There is no way to capture her actions in a still photo. To borrow a phrase..... Unbelievable.!!

Time to go clean up. All of the group put on their best traveling duds and headed out for a boat trip to Portofino. I must say the entire group cleaned up rather well. Micol was upset to learn that our private boat trip had become semi-private. She just did not know that she was about to be invaded by a traveling group of about 50 Fighting Texas Aggies. I watched with amusement as Abby, Rudi and Micol watched the Aggies do their thing of meeting a fellow Aggie. Susan and her gang were used to Aggies. The Head Coach at A&M, Dennis Franchonie, and his wife Kim were with the A&M group. All of Susan’s gang had known him and his wife when he was the coach at their beloved TCU. Ruth is still bitter at him for leaving the TCU Frogs.

We arrive in Portofino and everyone goes their own way. Now there is not much chance of getting lost in Portofino. Abby suffers a blowout on one of the rubber tips on one of her crutches. I could understand why after the mileage I had seen her she put on them. If Firestone had gotten the same safe mileage as that crutch tip, they would never have had any problems. Micol, Abby and a kind Italian lady manufactured a solution and Abby continued to pile up the miles.

David had problems and then came to the rescue. First he found out that his camera was not unbreakable. Two pieces proved that. He then came to the rescue when he finally found the spot that could make a good martini and treated several of us to a couple of rounds. Rudi, Karen and I really appreciated his find and his treating. Gigi also broke loose and had her first beer while we were having drinks and watched a wedding party pose for pictures. The majority thought the new husband looked the part of a real loser. Rudi loved watching someone in the wedding party give a policeman the shrug. Then, as usual, it was time to eat again.

Ristorante Puny was the spot and a meeting with Mr. Unbelievable, our waiter. The owner was in my opinion, crusty and set in his ways. The fish packed in salt was very good. Now Mr. Unbelievable was the waiter and, after his very broken English statements, we were rewarded with the words “unbelievable”.

We did hear the wonderful American Express story. As the story was told, the Chairman of American Express wanted to sail into Portofino and dine at Ristorante Puny. All was fine except Ristorante Puny does not welcome American Express cards. Well they did this night to some degree. Seems the Chairman had his dinner then whipped out the old American Express Card. The waiter takes it to the back where employees from the Genova American Express office are hiding. They ran the ticket, just like it was accepted, and then had the Chairman sign. The American Express employees then paid the Ristorante in cash and left the ticket. “Unbelievable”. I will always wonder if Mr. Unbelievable was the Chairman’s waiter that night.

During the meal I noticed the note-taker a/k/a Karen talking to Mr. Unbelievable about an ingredient. I don’t speak Italian but do fair with facial expressions. Soon Mr. Crusty is questioning the waiter to make sure he gave away no family secrets. You know, like does it have milk or not? Another great evening comes to an end. I did notice that Micol avoided her Hungarian cohort for her ride back to the hotel.

Day Six: Off to Genova. Before we departed a bet took place that Micol knew nothing about. In the lobby of the hotel Gigi made a comment that Micol did not have her red jacket. I really think it was her subconscious pink umbrella. We all loaded on the bus except Rudi and Abby. Micol makes an excuse that she must go check on them. I immediately turned to Gigi and said, “I bet you $5 that she went to get the red jacket.” Five minutes later I am a winner. Micol appears carrying her red jacket.

We took a bus tour of Genova. Went by Christopher Columbus’s house at least four times. He was never home. We then got off the bus and the brave took off. The rest of us all got a lesson in following our leader. We all enter a ristorante that none of us would have dared to have entered on our own. It was a very popular local lunch spot. Boy, the locals’ lunch was spoiled as we took over several tables in the back. Micol ordered for everyone and we sampled more varieties of great Italian food. I am not sure the locals ever figured out what was going on. After the meal and the always-necessary rush on the potty (No Potty Patrolman here) it was off to the candy factory.

I have not toured a candy factory since I was real young (I know that April and Robin would both say that was a real long long time ago) but had I toured this one as a youth it would not have changed. Fact the one I toured in my youth was probably more modern than this one. I guess that this place proves that if it isn’t broke then don’t dare try and fix it or improve it. They haven’t. We later found out when we went by their retail store that it was not broken because candy sales were booming. Ron summed it up best when he said something like “I feel like I am in an actual working museum.” We both agreed that the young man moving the copper pan over the hot flame while slowly dropping the syrup had a worst job than we did.

The rest of the afternoon was spent walking the streets of Genova. Karen was depressed when she entered one cooking store and could find nothing new. I saw no one show a great interest in anything in the tripe store. The smartest one this afternoon was Genevieve. She sat down in a pastry shop and had a pastry or two. She was real happy when she got the second one free. She went to the potty and they took half of her first one and then they replaced it with a new one. How many times do you think she has pulled this scam? Guess I will need to check with Ruth. I should have been with her.

I would have lost money on a bet that no one would get lost in Genova. That is unless I had not caught our leader casually asking for directions to the bus. We all made it. Not sure how April and Robin made it. They got lost on an open mountain trail at Cinque Terre, remember. Once on board we head to our final supper.

It was real obvious that we were with a true food professional. You had to be on a mission or you would never have found Ristorante Ferrando. Half way up the mountain someone said, “How did you ever find this place?” Micol’s response was that they make a figure-eight pasta and she wanted to try it. Now let me again borrow a phrase: Unbelievable. I, for one, am very glad she sought out that figure-eight pasta. What a wonderful ristorante in an absolutely wonderful setting. The outside was only equaled by the warmth, service, food and true hospitality on the inside. It seemed to me that the owner had taken Micol in as a very loved daughter and wanted to do everything to make this night perfect not only for her but also for the members of her group. In my opinion he succeeded.

At dinner Susan’s gang started planning the first annual reunion. I hope I am around to make that one. Bet we could even get Gigi and DeeDee if Gigi did not have to cook.

I was glad to see that I got my certificate. I would be interested to hear if Gigi showed hers to her husband. The bus ride was quiet and a time for reflection as all headed to the hotel.

Day Seven: Still more shopping. Most headed into Rapallo to yet again boost the city’s economy. I lost Ruth when I sent her wandering off toward the shop where we all got water. I said good-bye to most in front of the meat and cheese shop. I said my good bye to Micol after she had led us to buy the necessary chick pea flour.

My tour was over but my memories of a wonderful week, I hope, will live for a long time. I have thought of the many things I would have missed in the area had I not been on this tour. I experienced a lot that was new to me, I tasted a lot that was new to me and most important I met some wonderful people and that is what I will remember most.

To Our Leader: What a wonderful job you did. Everywhere we went we were treated in a gracious way. It was a pleasure to see people that are so proud of their culture and so interested in sharing with us what is so very important to them. Once again I thank you for your passion for life and giving of yourself, your passion for food and your passion for your native country. What a memorable tour.

Thanks, Love & Ciao, James J.