Mysterious and isolated, Sardinia has been inhabited since the Neolithic Age. Phoenician, Greek, Arab, Spanish, and French invaders have come and gone, marking the local language, customs, and cuisine. The mountainous inland terrain is home to wild animals (boar, mountain goat, hare, and more) which are transformed into succulent pasta sauces, stews, and roasts. Lamb, the island's favorite meat, is often cooked in the company of wild fennel, and sheep's milk cheese appears at nearly every Sardinian meal.

Malloreddus del Pastore

Sardinian Pasta with Sausage and Ricotta

Malloreddus are a small, oblong, grooved Sardinian pasta reminiscent of gnocchi. They are made of semolina flour and water (at times a bit of saffron is added), and take longer than most dried pastas to cook; 15 to 20 minutes is the norm. If you can't find malloreddus (they are also called gnocchetti sardi, or Sardinian gnocchi, opt for fusilli instead. This is the recipe I developed for the Sardinian lunch menu at Trattoria Dopo Teatro, a vibrant restaurant in Manhattan's Theater District. To taste it at Trattoria as chef Roberto Lamorte prepares it, call 212-869-2849 or click here.

• 1 pound malloreddus
• 2 tablespoons salt
• ¾ pound whole-milk Ricotta
• ½ cup freshly grated Pecorino Sardo (Sardinian Pecorino; Pecorino Romano can be substituted)
• ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• ½ pound spicy sausage, casings removed and crumbled
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Bring 5 quarts of water to a boil. Add the malloreddus and salt, and cook until al dente; drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water.

Meanwhile, beat the Ricotta, Pecorino, and pepper until smooth in a bowl.

Cook the sausage in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until browned lightly and cooked through, about 8 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook 30 seconds.

Fold in the malloreddus, reserved pasta cooking water, and Ricotta mixture; cook 30 seconds over medium-high heat, stirring to coat evenly. Serve hot, drizzled with the olive oil. Serves 6

Pollo con Finocchio, Olive e Vino Bianco

Chicken with Fennel, Olives, and White Wine

This succulent main course is equally delicious when rabbit is substituted for the chicken. Serve with roasted potatoes or crusty bread to mop up the delicious cooking juices.

• 8 chicken legs, halved and skinned
• 2 fennel bulbs with fronds, coarsely chopped
• 6 garlic cloves, halved
• 1/2 cup black olives
• 2 teaspoons fennel seeds, lightly crushed
• 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon chili flakes
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon salt

Combine the chicken pieces, fennel wedges and fronds, garlic, olives, fennel seeds, chili, pepper, wine, and olive oil in a 10- x 14-inch roasting pan. Refrigerate for 2 to 48 hours, tossing once in a while.

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Season the chicken and fennel evenly with the salt. Roast in the preheated oven for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until the chicken is browned and cooked all the way through and the fennel is tender, basting every 15 minutes with the cooking juices. Serve hot. Serves 4