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Friuli-Venezia Giulia

map by Dino De Angelis

Slavic, Austrian, and Hungarian influences make the cuisine of Friuli-Venezia Giulia uniquely beguiling. Trieste, the region's capital, straddles the Adriatic Sea and has long been the gateway to the East; the city's robust cabbage soups and delicate pastries are the fruit of years under Austro-Hungarian rule. Particular to the cooking of Friuli-Venezia Giulia is a pungent fermented turnip preparation known as brovada, served alongside subtly spiced pork dishes that recall the flavors of Slavic tables across the Gulf of Trieste.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia Recipes

Stuzzichini di Prosciutto e Melone

Prosciutto and Melon Lollipops

This appetizer is a playful interpretation of the classic pairing of Prosciutto and melon so beloved in Italy. Prosciutto di San Daniele hails from the small town of San Daniele in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, in Italy’s’ northeast, and is sweeter and less salty than Prosciutto di Parma, which is a specialty of Emilia-Romagna.

  • 1/2 pound paper-thin slices Prosciutto di San Daniele
  • 2 ripe cantaloupes

Cut the Prosciutto into 2 inch squares and spread out in a single layer on a tray.

Cut the cantaloupe in half horizontally, scoop out the seeds, and cut into balls with a melon baller. You should have about 48 balls.

Wrap a square of Prosciutto around each cantaloupe ball, then spear with a toothpick to hold. Arrange on a platter and refrigerate until needed (up to 1 hour). Makes 48 lollipops

Minestrone Invernale d'Orzo alla Salvia

Winter Minestrone with Barley and Sage
savoy cabbage

Don't be put off by the long ingredient list: this Friulian recipe is very easy to make. Once the ingredients are cut up and set aside, the cooking is a snap--and the results absolutely delicious!

  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 ounces double-smoked bacon, defatted and cut into ¼-inch dice
  • 1 medium yellow onion, minced
  • 1 carrot, minced
  • 2 scallions, white parts only, thinly sliced
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 6 basil leaves, torn
  • 1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley
  • 6 sage leaves
  • 2 thyme sprigs
  • 2 Savoy cabbage leaves, chopped
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 6 cups (1 and 1/2 quarts) chicken broth
  • 1 potato, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
  • 1/2 cup pearl barley
  • 1 cup string beans, ends trimmed, thinly sliced

Heat 1 tablespoons of the olive oil in a 2-quart pot. Add the bacon and cook 2 minutes over medium-high heat, stirring. Stir in the onion, carrot, scallions, garlic, basil, parsley, sage, and thyme, and cook 5 minutes, stirring often. Stir in the cabbage, season with the salt and 1/8 teaspoon of the pepper, and cook 5 more minutes.

Pour in the broth, cover, and bring to a boil. Add the potato and barley and cover. Cook 10 minutes.

Add the string beans, cover, and cook 15 minutes, or until the potato, barley, and string beans are tender. Discard the sage and thyme. Serve hot, drizzled with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and sprinkled with the remaining 1/8 teaspoon of pepper. Serves 4

Maiale con Porri e Peperoni

Pork Stew with Leek and Red Pepper
leek

Serve this hearty stew with steaming polenta to catch the rich sauce.

  • 1 and 1/2 pounds pork butt or shoulder, trimmed of fat and sinew, cut into 1-inch cubes
  • 1 carrot, cut into thin rounds
  • 1 leek, white part only, chopped
  • 2 medium yellow onions, chopped
  • 1/2 red pepper, cubed
  • 6 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 cup dry red wine
  • 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 cup chicken broth
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 tomato, peeled, seeded, and diced

Place the pork in a large container. Tie the carrot, leek, onions, red pepper, garlic, and bay leaf in a piece of cheesecloth. Add the cheesecloth bundle to the pork in the container, pour in the wine and vinegar, and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours.

When you are ready to cook, drain the pork from the marinade. Pat the pork cubes dry with paper towels (this is essential if you want to get a gorgeous brown color and deep flavor when you sear the pork). Reserve the liquid portion of the marinade; untie the cheesecloth bundle and place its contents in a bowl.

Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Sear the pork cubes in 2 or 3 batches in the hot olive oil until golden-brown all over, turning once in a while to cook evenly, about 5 minutes per batch; remove to a plate.

Add the reserved vegetables from the cheesecloth bundle and cook 5 minutes, stirring often. Return the pork to the pan, add the reserved liquid from the marinade and the broth, and bring to a gentle boil.

Season with salt and pepper and stir in the tomato; cook, covered, over medium-low heat for 2 hours, or until the pork is extremely tender, stirring once in a while. Serves 4

Additional Recipes from Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Published in Rustico: Regional Italian Country Cooking by Micol Negrin, published by Clarkson N. Potter:

  • Crisp Montasio Cheese Pancake
  • Chocolate- and Spinach-Filled Pasta with Smoked Ricotta
  • Potato Gnocchi with Cocoa, Golden Raisins, and Cinnamon
  • Polenta "Bombe" with Beef Ragù
  • Cranberry Bean and Sauerkraut Soup
  • Broiled Scallops and Oysters with Watercress
  • Pork-Stuffed Savoy Cabbage Bundles
  • Spinach, Leek, and Basil Frittata (pictured)
  • Cinnamon-Almond Pie
  • Ricotta Strudel
Spinach, Leek, and Basil Frittata